‘Peix sec is an explosion of flavour’

REPORT

David Sánchez, fisherman and producer of peix sec (dried fish) explains the production process of this iconic delicacy from Formentera.

David Sánchez goes out to fish in his little boat, called a llaüt, every day that sea conditions allow. Among his catches, he reserves the rays to be later sold as peix sec. Although it’s a hugely traditional product in Formentera, David and his family were the first to distribute it commercially as a conserve in olive oil. It can be found in shops across the island and in various dishes in the best restaurants in Formentera.

How long has peix sec been made in Formentera?

Forever, for as long as I can remember, peix sec has always been made on the island. It used to be made out of necessity, to preserve food at a time when there was no electricity. The best way to preserve it was by drying it, whether it was fish or other types of food. It’s an age-old tradition that has been kept alive over the years.

How did it used to be eaten?

Traditionally, the fisherman would dry the ray and sell it as is, hanging from the drying line. He didn’t oversee the whole process; he sold it in a semi-finished state and the final consumers were the ones who finished preparing it. People on the island knew what to do with the dried fish; they shredded it and used it in different dishes. It was normal to get slices of dried ray, which was later hydrated or shredded depending on the recipe to be made.

Why did you decide to become a fisherman?

My grandfather instilled his passion for fishing in me, as a hobby as opposed to a profession. I loved going out with him, with my rod to catch anything. Since then, I’ve felt devoted to the sea. I began taking fishing more seriously, until finally I became a professional. Now I can’t imagine working anywhere other than at sea.

What’s your daily routine at sea?

I don’t have a fixed schedule for going out to fish. It all depends on the weather. I can set sail at 2:00 AM, but also at 2:00 PM, weather forecasts determine when. Safety is the most important thing, especially with a llaüt as small as mine. It’s only seven metres long.

Where did the idea to sell peix sec come from?

The idea came from the need to find a commercial route for the ray I was fishing and couldn’t sell fresh. I realised I could dry the fish and complete the entire process so that anyone could eat peix sec directly from the jar. Bear in mind this product has always been made from cartilaginous fish. I started by testing and working with the health authorities to make sure the process complied with all regulations. Then I started distributing the product to small, local supermarkets, and little by little I expanded my market. Today, I can’t keep up with the demand.

What’s the process for producing peix sec like?

It’s quite meticulous. First of all, I catch the ray and clean it. Then I freeze it for 48 hours for health and safety reasons. After thawing it, I cut it into slices in a certain way and put it in salmuera (brine). Later, I air-dry it for three to five days, the amount of time varies depending on factors like humidity and wind. At this point, the fish is dry, but isn’t ready to eat. We take it to the workshop, where we heat it up on a griddle to soften it. Then we hit it with a mallet to separate the fibres of the ray. This achieves the characteristic texture of the product. Finally, we crumble it and put it in the preserving jar with olive oil. This prevents it from drying out any more, keeping it at the right point for consumption.

How can peix sec be used in cooking?

It has many uses in cooking beyond the traditional ensalada payesa (farmer’s salad). It can be used on pizzas, providing a strong, unique flavour. It’s also excellent in canapés as a starter, a form that I often use for sampling the product at trade fairs and events. It’s also great on cocas (flatbreads). It gives an explosion of flavour that is highly appreciated by anyone who tries it.

What role does peix sec play in Formentera’s cuisine?

It’s an iconic product that sets us apart from the rest of the islands. Every island has its own traditional products and dishes that represent them: Mallorca has its ensaïmada (a sweet pastry), Menorca has lobster and Ibiza has its flaó (cheesecake). In Formentera, we’ve always had delicious cuisine and peix sec has become our distinguished product, something we can be proud of and which sets us apart. It’s an important part of our cultural identity and cuisine.

Who are your main customers?

Mainly restaurants and the general public in Formentera, but we also have a large number of customers outside the island. We distribute to Ibiza, Mallorca and cities like Madrid and Barcelona. There’s a lot of demand from specialist shops and restaurants that value the product’s quality and tradition.