Maribel Tugores is part of the third generation to run Bar Nou in Es Capdellà, a restaurant founded by her grandparents in 1962. With a menu based on traditional Mallorcan cuisine, local products and dishes made in the traditional way, this iconic place continues to attract locals and tourists who seek homely food.
What's your first memory of Bar Nou?
I remember being there with my grandparents from a very young age, surrounded by people from the village. It was a favourite spot for locals: they came to play cards, dominoes, watch television, enjoy a vermouth... My father served, my grandmother cooked, and I always spent time in that atmosphere. It was a proper village bar, full of everyday life.
For those who don't know it, how did the story of Bar Nou begin and how did it develop over time?
My grandparents opened it in July 1962. They bought a plot of land in Es Capdellà, built the bar and lived behind it. In the beginning it was hard, there were three other bars and it was hard to build clientele. They opened at five o'clock in the morning for people going to work in the countryside, and were also open in the afternoon and evening. It was the first bar in the village with a television, which attracted lots of people. My father worked with them from the beginning, and I started at the age of 14 when he asked me to help. That's when I started waiting tables on the terrace while he was in the kitchen. Little by little we grew, we even started featuring in tourist guides. I run the business now, since he retired 15 years ago.
What’s changed from the time of your grandparents to now, in terms of both running the bar and the clientele?
Everything’s changed: my grandmother used to cook over firewood, and the dishes were washed in stone sinks. Today, everything’s more modern and in line with regulations. The type of customer has also changed. Before, it was more of a casual bar: beers, peanuts, cards... Today, it’s more of a restaurant: breakfast, lunch and dinner. And the admin side of things has also changed a lot. Before there were no taxes or regulations, now it’s a lot more complex.
What does being at the head of a family business with so much history mean to you? Is it an honour or more of a burden?
It’s both. On the one hand, I’m very proud to be in the third generation and moving forward, which isn’t easy. On the other hand, it’s a heavy burden: it gets more and more demanding, it’s hard to find good staff, to keep up the same line of work... But I’m still enjoying it.
Your menu focuses on Mallorcan cuisine. Which traditional dishes stand out and which are most popular with customers?
We have typical dishes such as pa amb oli and trempó, but also other more complex dishes: frit mallorquí with lamb, snails, Mallorcan soup, stuffed aubergines, pork loin with cabbage, tombet with fried eggs and Mallorcan-style cod. We also make arròs brut with snails and typical paella and fideuá dishes. We switch up some dishes on the menu depending on the season and, for example, at the November fair we serve variat mallorquí, which includes homemade food such as my grandmother's meatballs. People look forward to it and it’s always well received.
What dishes do you consider most representative of your cuisine? Which ones do your customers ask for the most?
The most popular dishes are frit mallorquí with lamb or seafood, roast lamb, pork loin with cabbage, tombet... Also snails, which we stew. The variat mallorquí is very popular when it’s available. These dishes really represent traditional Mallorcan cuisine and people come here especially for them.
Why do you think these dishes are still so popular today?
Because these are dishes that people don't usually cook at home. They require a lot of time, ingredients, patience... And it’s often cheaper and more convenient to come and eat them here. We also offer good value for money, friendly service and home-style cooking. Locals and tourists try them and end up coming back. That speaks volumes.
Do you work with local suppliers and zero-mile produce?
Yes, all our suppliers are Mallorcan, the same ones my father worked with 30 years ago. They know the type of food I want and bring me fresh, seasonal produce whenever possible. I prefer tomatoes, aubergines and peppers from here. In winter, of course, there are things that aren’t grown on the island, but we always give priority to local produce.
How important is it for a restaurant like yours to back local produce?
It’s important because you know you’re working with quality food, which hasn’t been through cold storage or travelled far. It tastes better, it’s fresher, and we’re also supporting the island’s producers. We have the perfect climate for farming, and this is reflected in the quality of our produce.
In recent years, it seems that tradition is gaining more appreciation. Do you also notice this in your restaurant?
Yes, traditional food never goes out of fashion. You might fancy modern cuisine one day, but you never get bored of classics like tombet, arròs brut or stuffed aubergines. Young people also appreciate it a lot, and I’m happy about that. It’s not just something older people like. There’s a desire for authenticity.
And what future do you see for Bar Nou? Is a generational change expected?
For the time being, there’s no change in sight. But I still have a great team, and together we’re moving forward. We do the best we can, every day, with the drive and desire to keep offering authentic Mallorcan cuisine and friendly service, as has always been the case at Bar Nou.