José María Calonge is a chef, teacher and current head of the cooking department at the Balearic Islands School of Hospitality. Born in Cuenca and trained in Madrid and France, he has been involved in chef training in Mallorca since 1998. He combines technique with pedagogy, and is a firm advocate of local products, sustainability and respect for traditional Balearic cuisine.
What are your earliest memories of being in the kitchen?
The early stages were when I was very young. When I was 14, my father heard that a nearby restaurant was looking for a kitchen assistant and encouraged me to try out at Christmas. I liked it so much that I decided to study cooking at the School of Hospitality in Madrid. Even before that, my interest was piqued in the moments when my mother, grandmother and aunts would get together to make typical Easter desserts. I loved the atmosphere. From there, I worked in restaurants and hotels in the Levant area, and later moved to Mallorca, where I've been ever since.
What does it mean to you to teach cooking today?
I like teaching cooking, of course, but I believe that beyond techniques and recipes, you have to convey attitudes, a way of being and understanding of the work. Today’s youth must also learn professional ethics and values, not just procedures. Teaching what you know and seeing them appreciate it is very rewarding, but what really makes the difference is teaching them how to behave in a kitchen.
How do you rate Balearic cuisine?
For me, it's a real gem. It has lots of different historical influences, which makes it so rich and varied, but it has also managed to maintain its roots. Being on islands means lots of recipes have stayed almost fully intact over time, something that hasn't happened elsewhere. Now, innovation and new techniques have also found their way in, but the basics are still the same. The classic recipe book, products and local identity are still very much present.
Do you think there are any products or dishes that go unappreciated?
Sure there are. There are excellent products that aren't on trend or well-known enough. Rather than being unappreciated, I'd say they haven't been given the visibility they deserve. Chefs have the responsibility of updating them and bringing them back into the spotlight. For example, I find it hard to understand how black pork tenderloin can be cheaper than white pork ribs. Sometimes it's a question of trends, but local products are really good and have a lot of potential.
What role do local products play in the training you offer?
We try to make it central. Mallorcan cuisine represents 60% of our collection of recipes, although we also teach international techniques. We buy local products whenever we can, although, as a public school, we're tied to public tenders where price tends to take priority. Even so, outside of this dynamic, such as in our à la carte restaurant, we look for local products: Mallorcan prawns, black pork, local vegetables, etc. We want students to see and appreciate the island's products.
Do you also teach this respect for the producer and local products?
Yes, the theory we teach focuses on local products and dishes, and we compare them with other ingredients from abroad. We show the students differences in quality and encourage them to learn to value what is close to them. We also organise visits and talks with local producers of cheese, oil, salt, etc. Cooperatives and associations help us to give students a better understanding of what's behind each product.
And what role does sustainability play in all this?
It's a complex issue. In the Balearics, since they're islands, local products are usually more expensive than what comes from elsewhere. But we believe it's better and worthwhile to support local producers. If we can boost demand for the products here, one day it could be more competitive in terms of price. We aim to collaborate with reliable producers and use their products whenever we can.
What's your view on the balance between tradition and innovation in cuisine?
A few years ago, innovation was everything: new techniques, spherification, airs... But that's changing. Today people are looking to enjoy, share, eat well and taste products treated with respect. You don't need to make an oil spherification for a pa amb oli. Balearic cuisine already has dishes that lend themselves to sharing and enjoyment without gimmicks. That's the way forward now: simplicity, authenticity and quality.