‘Mahón-Menorca cheese is a reflection of the island. Salty like the sea and strong like the wind’

What’s it like being at the head of a family company like Subaida? 

My work involves coordinating the daily running of things, overseeing production and ensuring quality standards are met. In any case, in a small business like ours, we all help where it’s needed. Managing Subaida is a huge responsibility because I have a lot of respect for what the generations before me have achieved. It’s a great encouragement to keep going. 

Tell me about Pedro Montañés, your grandfather. 

It was he who decided to ramp up the production of cheese on the farm, before that it was more residual. He was very sure about it. He’s also known for founding Industrial Quesera Menorquina in 1930, which later became the famous El Caserío. He did this to do something with the surplus cheese produced on the farms. He worked in France, where he discovered melted cheese and decided to bring this innovative idea to Menorca, creating the famous portions of cheese. He even had to make the machines here. He was a real entrepreneur. 

In recent years, you’ve also switched up the production of cheese on the farm. What did this change involve? 

In the 90s, we significantly increased production, going from milking 70 cows to 150. However, little by little, the costs started increasing for basic things like feed and transport. For this reason, in 2010 we decided to reduce the number of cattle and go back to basics. We needed to make less cheese, so we could control the entire process. From feeding the cows to processing, maturing and selling. It’s a matter of making ourselves small again in order to improve, and thus achieve a consistent product. 

The cheese-making period affects the characteristics of the product. How do you achieve a consistent product? 

First of all, we make sure the cows eat the same food all year round by silage, i.e. the preservation of fodder by means of fermentation, which keeps it in a similar state to that in which it’s fresh. We also control the cows’ pastures in order to standardise milk production. Finally, it’s essential to have facilities where you can produce under stable conditions. 

What varieties do you make? Which has the most output? 

Answer: We make four varieties. Soft, hard, semi-hard and aged cheese. The soft one is matured for five weeks; semi-hard, from 2 to 4 months; hard, from 5 to 9 months and aged, more than 12 months. The semi-hard cheese has the highest demand. It’s a cheese for everyone. In any case, I have a weakness for the intensity of the aged one. 

How would you describe the DOP Mahón-Menorca cheese? 

It’s a cheese with a distinctive shape. Its flavour is also characteristic, salty like the sea and strong like the wind on the island. It’s a reflection of Menorca. It has become a hallmark of the island, something we’re proud of. There’s also greater recognition from abroad. Advertising and taking part in international fairs have allowed us to reach far and wide. 

What’s your preferred way of eating it? 

Personally, I like it on its own or with fruit, especially grapes. At any rate, it’s a very versatile cheese and great chefs incorporate it into their recipes or use it to accompany certain dishes. As we have varieties with different flavours, it can be played around with. 

Your cheeses have received several awards. Is there any one you were particularly excited about? 

While all recognition is important, we were particularly excited about winning the Championship of Best Spanish Cheeses in 2016. This was a really important award for us. 

You were among the first to organise visits to the farm. How did this idea come about? 

This activity really sparked our interest. Firstly, because it drives us to keep the farm in pristine condition so that people can see it. Secondly, because it gives us control over the customer’s perception of our cheese, as they try it here. This direct contact with the customer is really important.