"Variat has never gone away, but now people are appreciating it again"

Do you remember the first time you stood behind the bar at Casa Miss?

I don't have a clear memory because I was practically born inside the bar. Even when I wasn't working yet, I was always there, and from an early age I was behind the bar. It's been a part of my life from the beginning.

What did your parents or grandparents tell you about the early days of the business?

They said it was very different from what it is today. The way of working, the type of drinks, the clientele, etc. Back then, customers were more loyal, as they used to always go to the same bar. Now the clientele is much more diverse, in terms of both nationality and taste. Everything's changed a lot.

And has that business vision been passed on to you?

Yes, although it's evolved. In hospitality you need to be constantly changing. You have to adapt to trends and keep up with the times without losing your roots. Be aware of what you want to convey to the customer, while staying up-to-date in tastes and ways of working. As celebrations and customs change, so does the bar.

Variat is a token dish at Casa Miss. What does it mean to you?

Variat is a part of Mallorca's popular culture. For years it was a way of bringing people together, eaten after church or with friends for an aperitif. There was a time when the trend dipped, but now it's back with a vengeance. People have rediscovered it and eat it at any time of day.

Why do you think it's become popular again?

I think, like everything does, it's made a comeback. The same happened with vermouth. Social media has also helped a lot in making people aware of it, especially those coming from abroad. It may be a shock at first due to the mix of flavours, textures, hot and cold bits, food from the sea vs. the mountains... But once you try it, you understand it's a real delicacy.

What should be in an authentic variat?

It's easier to say what it shouldn't be in it: chorizo, chistorra sausage, potato omelette... No. But it can contain tripe, pork loin with mushrooms, beef tongue, pica-pica (squid stew), salad and something crispy like batter-fried calamari, croquettes or vegetables. In Sa Pobla they don't tend to add anything fried, but in other places they do. A mussel with mayonnaise or aioli may also be in it. This is a traditional variat.

What about getting innovative with variat, to what extent is that okay?

I'm okay with trying new things if it's done using traditional products. For example, in an espinagada you can use different types of fish or meat without straying from the basic recipe. But adding gnocchi, a fried egg or ingredients that have nothing to do with tradition makes no sense. Innovation has to respect the essence.

What importance do local products have in your kitchen?

A great deal. We buy our beef from Sa Pobla and Manacor, and the pork is local. Croquettes are made for us in Marratxí. Our potatoes also come from Sa Pobla. Whenever we can, we try to buy from around here. At first glance, customers might not notice the difference between a local potato and one from elsewhere, because both can be high quality, but if you can support local producers, you must.

Does Mallorcan cuisine get enough appreciation?

Yes, but there are very few restaurants that make it. We were talking about this the other day: there are lots of places serving international cuisine, but few serving Mallorcan cuisine. So when you find a good one, you've got to book or you won't get in. People appreciate dishes such as arròs brut ('dirty rice'), Mallorcan soup, burballes (noodle soup), etc. The hard part is finding them.

Why aren't more restaurants opening that serve Mallorcan cuisine?

Because it's easier and more profitable to use pre-cooked or ready-to-eat products. Cooking traditional dishes requires more work and dedication. And today, many go for the easy option.

Is there anything you hope will never be lost from what you learned in your family?

I'd like to see as much of it preserved as possible. I think the School of Hospitality should offer specific training in Mallorcan cuisine, for both pastry making and catering. It'd be a way of preserving all that know-how.

And what advice would you give to those who want to support this culture?

I'm not one to give advice, but I would say that small and medium-sized businesses in every town should be supported. They're what make our community, our country and our way of life thrive.