Javier Font Morro is the chef at Es Vaixell, a restaurant in Es Portitxol (Palma) that has specialised in a Mallorcan icon for over two decades: llonguet. Run by Alejandro, the founder, and serving food made using local ingredients, this restaurant has managed to keep a baking tradition alive with all the flavour and identity of the island.
How did you end up at Es Vaixell?
I’ve been running the kitchen for four years. I used to be head chef at another restaurant, but my friendship with Alejandro, the owner, and family reasons, brought me to live and work here. It was a very natural decision to make.
Since when have llonguets been served at Es Vaixell?
It’s been 25 years now. Alejandro was the one who came up with the idea of specialising in this typical bread from Palma. In the beginning, they only served llonguets, but over time, salads and other food was added. But the heart of the business remains the same: llonguets.
What’s so special about this bread roll that makes it the centrepiece of an entire menu?
It’s a symbol of Palma. We make them with love and care. We’ve chosen the baker we work with very carefully and we also take care of every ingredient. We always want to use local ingredients, because that’s what gives meaning to what we do.
As a chef, what does it mean to you to work with a product so closely tied to local identity?
I’m proud of it. Serving this type of product to customers from the neighbourhood, or those who’ve been coming here for a long time and seeing them leave satisfied, is so rewarding.
What kind of llonguets do you currently offer?
We have everything from the classics, such as serrano ham or cooked ham with cheese, to more elaborate ones such as our llonguet filled with trempó salad with mussels, sardines, mackerel or tuna. We also make others like pork with cheese and peppers, or serrano ham with mozzarella and rocket. The most popular one right now is a more creative one: Italian mortadella with pistachio, rocket, sundried tomato and buffalo mozzarella. We introduced it a year ago and it’s been a great success.
Is that the most original one you’ve made?
Yes, it probably is. Although Alejandro has always been a big fan of the classic Mallorcan style: sobrassada, Mahón cheese, camaiot... But we also try not to be mundane and come up with new versions to wow customers without losing our essence.
What makes the perfect llonguet for you?
It should be crispy on the outside and softer on the inside, with good extra virgin olive oil and excellent ingredients inside. The key is quality and respect for the product.
Some say llonguets almost disappeared. How is it doing now?
It didn’t disappear; in fact, it’s more alive than ever. Today it’s a staple, one of our most iconic food products. Trends come and go, and now the llonguet is back in fashion. Fairs such as the Llonguet Fair or movements such as Orgull Llonguet have helped to give it the place it deserves.
What do you think of these movements that support local products?
They’re always welcome. In our case, we’ve been doing it for 25 years. But anything that defends local products, that works to uphold our local culinary culture, is positive. We welcome people from all over the island, as well as tourists who come because they’ve been recommended the place. That’s a sign that we’re doing well.
Do you work with local products?
Yes, absolutely. Except for mozzarella and mortadella, which we import directly from Italy with a certificate of origin, everything else is local. We’re committed to Mallorcan and Menorcan cheeses. This means we can ensure quality and support local producers.
What role does Es Vaixell play in protecting Mallorcan culinary heritage?
I think we’re an example of resilience. A restaurant like this proves that you can keep a tradition alive without sacrificing quality or creativity. It’s important to protect what’s ours, and that all starts in the kitchen.