"Bites of Mallorca": the chef who cooks traditional yet mindful dishes

José Cortés backs local produce, olive oil and Mallorcan identity from his kitchen at Treurer, in Algaida

José Cortés (Palma, 1974) is one of the key names associated with defending Balearic food from the kitchen. He has a background of technical excellence and commitment to the land. He’s currently lead chef at the Treurer farmhouse restaurant, offering a menu revolving around extra virgin olive oil, sustainability and traditional cuisine. There, he designs unique experiences where each dish tells the story of a Mallorca that’s authentic and full of life.

How did you become involved in the world olive oil? 

My relationship with olive oil goes back a long way, but the peak was when I discovered ‘Oli de Mallorca’ Designation of Origin during a conference at the School of Hospitality. From then on, I started taking part in competitions, and even won some, which got me even more interested. I officially trained as an oil taster at the University of Valencia. Since then, extra virgin olive oil has always been a staple in my kitchen. At Treurer I started working at small events and tapas tastings, and today all the dishes I make there revolve around olive oil: I don't use animal fat, not even in desserts. Everything is based on EVOO. 

What is your current role at Treurer? 

I’m the one who designs and executes the restaurant’s menu. I work alone; there’s no kitchen team. It’s not the only work I do, but I’m there practically every day. I’m in charge of turning the olive oil they produce into dishes that really highlight it. We do dinners and sometimes lunches, always requiring a reservation, for both hotel guests and external customers. The idea is to make them understand that olive oil isn’t just for pa amb oli or salads: it has enormous potential, and this is where we show it. 

What techniques do you use to show the oil’s potential? 

I work a lot with oil at low temperature: for example, I confit Mallorcan lamb with garden herbs, and then I use the same oil to make the sauce. I also make butterless sponge cakes, sauces and even oil foams. Everything is homemade, since it’s a very small space. I buy what I need every day according to the number of diners and the type of menu I want to make, which also helps to prevent food waste. This is part of a philosophy based on zero waste and a circular economy. 

What kind of olive oil tourism experience do you offer? 

It’s a complete experience. Guests arrive before dinner for a tour with the owner, Miguel. They visit the olive trees, the oil mill—modern but small—and learn about the whole olive oil production process. We also do tastings so they understand the difference between good oil and not-so-good oil. Then they enjoy a meal among the olive trees, in summer on the outdoor terrace. It’s both an educational and a sensory experience that’s received positive feedback, especially from foreign visitors looking for the real Mallorca that respects the environment. It also tends to amaze locals, who may be discovering a place like this for the first time and end up coming back. 

How important is it for you to work with local products? 

Completely. I always try to use as many local products as possible. I work with sobrassada from Can Company, Mallorcan almonds, Mallorcan lamb and so on. Obviously it’s not possible to use it 100%, because we’re on an island and there are limits, but the focus is clear. In my kitchen you’ll never find ceviche or curry: you can find that elsewhere. Here the customers come, as I say, to eat ‘bites of Mallorca’. We also have a small garden where I grow tomatoes, lettuce, peppers and herbs for the dishes. It’s food with close ties to the land. 

Do you think that using local produce is also a way of preserving identity?

 No doubt about it. And this is something that worries me, because cooking schools teach little about Mallorcan food. If it’s not passed on, it’ll be lost. Lots of students aren’t from here, so if they don’t learn about it, they won’t cook it. It’s crucial to teach about local cuisine in order to protect local dishes, but also to support the primary sector. If we chefs don’t buy from our producers, they won’t sell, and then it’ll be difficult to make way for the next generation. Everything is connected. We have to understand that Mallorcan products are of great quality and something we should be proud of. 

How do you find the balance between tradition and innovation? 

First, you have to understand tradition. That gives you a foundation. From there you can evolve and apply new techniques, but in a meaningful way. I don’t use techniques for the sake of it—only if they improve a dish. I like to work with few ingredients, but clearly defined, so customers understand what they’re eating. I use techniques such as sous vide because it preserves flavours and nutrients better. But it all starts with tradition, and you build from there. 

What challenges do you see in the future of Balearic cuisine? 

The biggest problem is the next generation. Cooking is hard work, requiring a lot of effort and difficult working hours, which puts many young people off. I get it, they want a quieter life. But if there’s no one to take over, then there’s no future. And we can’t simply bring in staff from abroad due to the lack of housing. We must focus on training, attracting talent to the hospitality industry and showing that it’s a beautiful, highly rewarding profession. Moreover, we must take care of Mallorca’s image by offering quality across the board. We have spectacular products, but we often don’t know how to sell them. And that has to be changed. We must start by believing it ourselves.

Mallorca
Mallorca
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