“Ensaïmada isn't just another traditional pastry; it's Mallorca's identity”

What does continuing this family tradition mean to you?

For me, it's about remembering the efforts of my ancestors and putting in the effort required from me now. It's a very important legacy, and I hope it'll last for many years to come.

What's changed at the bakery since it first opened and what's stayed the same?

We've evolved based on what the customers demand, while still upholding Mallorcan tradition. We keep making the classic products and those associated with festivals and traditions.

What is your first memory linked to this bakery and ensaïmada?

My playground was the bakery. We lived upstairs, and when I came home from school I would go downstairs to play among the pastries and counters. I grew up there. Today, that would be unthinkable, but at that time I was like the bakery's mascot. As for ensaïmada, the process has hardly changed. It's by hand, long, starts one day and ends the next. It takes time and care to make it perfect.

What is it about ensaïmada that makes it so special for Mallorcans?

It's a long-standing traditional dessert with close ties to our identity. People still take it to celebrations, when they visit their friends, etc. It's something that represents us and that's why it's still thriving.

What does the Designation of Origin 'Ensaïmada de Mallorca' contribute?

You need to follow a certain process and strict requirements to be able to call it that. It's important to recognise a proper way of making it, to prevent products that aren't ensaïmadas from being sold as Mallorcan ensaïmadas. The Regulatory Council helps maintain a certain standard, although each bakery has its own style.

What should a good ensaïmada be like?

We try to make sure all ensaïmadas look excellent and are of high quality. We want the customer to take away a product that they're satisfied with.

Is the process still by hand or has it been modernised?

Ensaïmada is still made by hand, as it was 50 years ago. Only the kneading is done by machine. Shaping, filling and baking are done in the traditional way. The only thing that's changed is now we also offer packaged ensaïmadas, so that they last longer in good condition when they're taken on trips.

What types of ensaïmadas are the most popular? And what do you think of modern versions?

The best-selling ones are the classic ones: plain and angel hair, which are the ones with Designation of Origin. Then come the ones with cream, dark or white chocolate, apricot, etc. There are also seasonal ensaïmadas, such as marzipan at Christmas or fig in summer. The more modern ones, like those with cod or peppers, are made on special occasions for specific festivals. The demand for them isn't as high.

Is ensaïmada more than just a pastry?

Yes, it's a part of our identity. You bring one over when visiting friends, to celebrations, etc. It's a product that represents the Mallorcan people and suits any occasion. Fortunately, it's still very much alive.

How important is traditional baking in Balearic food culture?

A great deal. Food and drink identify people. Here we have products such as sobrassada sausage, gató (almond cake), herb liqueur, and of course, ensaïmada. These are things that aren't done in the same way anywhere else. They identify us as islanders.

What do you think about the consumption of local produce?

This is really important. Not only must we consume local produce, but also buy it from where it is actually produced in the traditional way. Ensaïmada from a bakery isn't the same as a supermarket ensaïmada. I support buying from where it's made well, where there's trust.

How do you see the future of traditional bakeries?

It's a very demanding job. It requires a lot of hard work and commitment. It's becoming more and more difficult to find people willing to make that effort. There's a lack of bakers, confectioners, butchers, and so on. Everyone's looking for easier, better paid jobs. But if artisans disappear, what will we eat? This isn't just a one-person job, it requires community effort. The best way to show support is to buy from traditional bakeries and appreciate what they do.